Leathercraft Journal

Long-form workshop notes on the parts of leatherwork that need thinking through before the knife moves. 26 articles, free to read, no account needed.

26 articles

Rolled and stacked leather hides on shelving in a dim storage room with a wall hygrometer
Latest · Material Calculation

Storing Leather Properly: Humidity, Light, Rolls and Records

Leather that has been stored badly is expensive material turned into scrap. Simple storage discipline protects both the hide and your ability to find the right piece when you need it.

6 August 2026 · 10 min read

A leather sewing machine with thread cones beside a hand stitching pony holding a leather panel
Stitching & Hardware

Hand Stitching Versus Machine: Strength, Speed and Honest Economics

The saddle stitch is genuinely stronger than a lockstitch, and that fact is genuinely irrelevant to many products. Here is how to decide which seam belongs on which item.

5 August 2026 · 10 min read

Leather panels being glued with contact cement, a roller and brush on a workshop bench
Cutting & Pattern

Adhesives for Leatherwork: What Holds, What Slips, What Ruins Grain

Glue in leatherwork is an assembly aid, not a structural bond — except when it is. Knowing which adhesive to reach for and how to prepare the surface saves whole projects.

4 August 2026 · 10 min read

Assorted brass rivets, snaps and setting tools laid out beside a hand press on a leather work surface
Stitching & Hardware

Setting Rivets and Snaps Without Ruining the Panel

Hardware failures are almost never the hardware's fault. Post length, hole size, anvil choice and a controlled strike decide whether a rivet holds for decades or spins loose in a week.

3 August 2026 · 10 min read

Wooden slicker burnishing the edge of a thick vegetable tanned leather strap on a workbench
Dyeing & Finishing

Burnishing Edges That Last: Friction, Moisture and Patience

A glassy edge is not a coating, it is compressed fibre. Understand what burnishing actually does to the leather and your edges stop fraying after three months of pocket wear.

2 August 2026 · 10 min read

Diamond awl and stitching chisel resting on a piece of thick vegetable tanned leather
Stitching & Hardware

Awl or Chisel: Two Ways to Make a Stitching Hole

Diamond chisels punch straight through; a diamond awl pierces at an angle behind a pricking iron. The choice changes your spacing, your thread length and the look of the finished seam.

28 July 2026 · 9 min read

Hand saddle stitching a tan leather wallet on a wooden bench
Stitching & Hardware

How Much Thread Does a Saddle Stitch Really Need?

The arithmetic behind thread length, why the classic 'seam times three' rule fails on thick leather, and how to cut once without running short mid-seam.

28 July 2026 · 7 min read

Spools of waxed linen and polyester thread in cream and brown on a workshop bench
Stitching & Hardware

Choosing Thread: Linen, Polyester and the Numbers on the Spool

Thread size, fibre and wax all change how a seam looks and how long it lasts. A plain guide to reading spool numbers and matching thread to hole size.

25 July 2026 · 9 min read

Skiving knife thinning the edge of a leather panel on a marble slab
Cutting & Pattern

Skiving: Controlling Thickness Where Layers Meet

Folded edges, overlapping seams and turned linings all fail the same way — too much bulk. Skiving is how you get thickness under control before it becomes a problem.

22 July 2026 · 8 min read

A full vegetable tanned cowhide laid flat with paper patterns arranged on it
Material Calculation

Estimating Hide Consumption Without Wasting Half a Side

Nesting, grain direction, belly waste and the real reason your 12 square foot order only yielded 8 usable feet.

21 July 2026 · 8 min read

Cut leather wallet panels arranged with a brass ruler and dividers on pattern paper
Cutting & Pattern

Wallet Pattern Fundamentals: Allowances, Card Slots and Stack Height

A wallet fails on millimetres. Here is how card slot geometry, turn allowance and cumulative thickness decide whether your pattern works before you cut anything.

19 July 2026 · 9 min read

Stacked and rolled leather hides in a tannery storeroom under warm light
Material Calculation

Vegetable, Chrome and Everything Between: Understanding Tannage

Tannage determines whether leather can be tooled, moulded, burnished or dyed. A practical explanation of what each type does at the bench.

16 July 2026 · 9 min read

A thickness gauge and leather swatches of different weights on a workbench
Material Calculation

Leather Thickness: Making Sense of Ounces, Irons and Millimetres

Why the same leather is 6 oz in one catalogue and 2.4 mm in another, and how to choose weight for the piece you are actually making.

14 July 2026 · 7 min read

Round knife cutting a leather strap along a steel rule on a cutting mat
Cutting & Pattern

Cutting Straps That Stay Straight

Long straight cuts are harder than they look. Blade choice, hide direction, and a strap cutter used properly are what separate a straight belt from a banana.

13 July 2026 · 8 min read

Hands rubbing antique finish into a tooled leather panel with a soft cloth
Dyeing & Finishing

Antiquing and Resist: Getting Depth Into Tooled Leather

Antique gel sinks into tooled depressions and wipes off raised areas — but only if the resist is right. A step-by-step method with the failure modes explained.

10 July 2026 · 9 min read

Leather bag being formed over a wooden mould with clamps in a workshop
Dyeing & Finishing

Wet Moulding: Shaping Leather Around a Form

Casing, forming and drying vegetable tanned leather into a permanent three-dimensional shape — the process, the water temperatures, and how much shrinkage to expect.

7 July 2026 · 9 min read

Pricking irons and a mallet punching stitch holes along a leather strap edge
Stitching & Hardware

Stitch Hole Spacing: Choosing a Pitch That Suits the Piece

SPI, millimetre pitch, corner planning and why an even hole count decides whether your seam ends cleanly.

7 July 2026 · 7 min read

Notebook of pricing calculations with a calculator and leather offcuts on a workbench
Material Calculation

Pricing Handmade Leather Goods Without Guessing

Material cost, waste, hardware, consumables and a real hourly rate. A transparent method for arriving at a price you can defend and survive on.

4 July 2026 · 9 min read

Organised wall of leatherworking tools including awls, mallets, stamps and a stitching pony
Stitching & Hardware

Building a Starter Toolkit That Actually Gets Used

What to buy first, what to buy later, and what to never buy. A practical progression from first cut to finished small goods without wasting money.

1 July 2026 · 8 min read

Leather dye bottles, daubers and dyed test swatches on a workbench
Dyeing & Finishing

Dyeing Leather Evenly: Dose, Application and Patience

How much dye a panel actually absorbs, why streaks form, and a repeatable process for consistent colour across a whole project.

30 June 2026 · 8 min read

Burnishing a leather edge with a wooden slicker beside beeswax and edge paint
Dyeing & Finishing

Edge Finishing: Burnishing, Painting and Knowing Which to Use

A slick burnished edge and a crisp painted edge solve different problems. Here is how to choose, and how to execute each one properly.

23 June 2026 · 8 min read

A handmade brown leather belt with brass buckle beside a measuring tape
Cutting & Pattern

Belt Length and Sizing: The Numbers Behind a Belt That Fits

Waist size is not belt size. Buckle allowance, hole spacing, fold length and taper, explained for makers who take commissions.

16 June 2026 · 7 min read

Brass rivets, snaps and buckles sorted in wooden compartment trays
Stitching & Hardware

Estimating Hardware: Rivets, Snaps and the Cost of Running Out

How to count fasteners properly, choose post lengths for your stack thickness, and build a buffer that survives setting failures.

9 June 2026 · 7 min read

Conditioning an aged brown leather bag with a cloth and tin of balm
Dyeing & Finishing

A Realistic Leather Care Schedule for Everyday Pieces

How often to condition, what climate does to leather, and why over-conditioning damages more pieces than neglect.

2 June 2026 · 7 min read

Paper pattern templates, ruler and compass drafting a leather bag pattern
Cutting & Pattern

Scaling Patterns Accurately Without Ruining the Proportions

Why enlarging a pattern by 20 per cent does not enlarge the capacity by 20 per cent, and which dimensions must never scale.

26 May 2026 · 8 min read

Leather offcuts and scrap pieces piled beside a cutting mat and round knife
Material Calculation

Reducing Leather Waste: Nesting, Offcuts and Honest Yield

Where the offcuts really come from, how to raise nesting efficiency by ten points, and what to do with the scrap you cannot avoid.

19 May 2026 · 7 min read